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Tokyo Marui VSR
Guide by Leadluke on Thursday 27 January 2005 TOKYO MARUI VSR SNIPER RIFLE SERIES By Leadluke The aim of this document is simply to inform a new user to the Tokyo Marui VSR sniper rifle series, about the gun itself, possible (current) upgrades, tips and that kind of thing. It doesn’t cover everything, but is probably a good starting point. Please use the links and search for yourselves a bit, as there is always something new or something I may have missed! Stats:  - VSR10 Real-shock
The power rating from this table may suggest that the G-Spec has a higher stock power. People have reported that this is true, but you can never assume this because the power will vary if only slightly, between every model! Although the guns’ build material is listed as ABS (plastic), a range of parts on it are metal, mainly housed in the internal mechanisms. The weights are all very similar and also light in comparison to other ‘sniper’ rifles on the market. This is an issue to some; with it being tagged with various labels on forums such as ‘feels like a fairground gun’. However, don’t let that chase you away – TM have made a superb rifle that can’t be beaten price wise, providing a good platform for a great performing wannabe sniper. Useful Links: http://www.honolulu888.homestead.com/Vsr10.html - Very useful for seeing how new parts perform in the gun Manual: http://www.skirmish.at/scans/manuals/tokyo_marui_VSR_10/ More parts than you can shake a stick at: [UK] http://www.airsoftdynamics.net/shop/ADSsto...s;VSR10%20Parts [HK] http://www.wgcshop.com/ - type VSR into search box [HK] http://www.dentrinityshop.com/pr_list.jsp?cid=SPA&bid=MVSR&pg=2&rpp=10 (or go to www.dentrinity.com , overseas order site, type VSR into search box) Den and WGC are updated regularly so are a good place to look for new upgrades Complete laylax product range for the VSR 10's: http://www.laylax.com/webcatalog/index.php?brand_id=9 VSR10 / G-Spec?
The vsr10 also has two variations – the ‘real shock’ and ‘pro sniper version’. The real shock has a fake wood stock and the pro sniper has a matt black stock. The real shock also has a slightly different piston, which creates a louder noise and supposed recoil effect. The price difference between the two does not vary much if you shop around. The VSR ranges from about £135 in the UK and about $159 in HK, and the G-Spec ranges from about £155 in the UK and about $195 in HK (excluding any postage costs). If you venture abroad you can pick one up cheaper, but slap on some postage and tax, and for this price you may well be paying what you do in the UK anyway. Unless the dollar keeps falling… Then VSR series are a great start for a sniper on a budget. With the UK power restrictions being what they are and applying to most sites, this rifle is probably your best bet for sniping at 1J. The basic upgrades are easily available and simple to fit (with a tiny mod). Its light weight means it is great for younger players or the less buff adult! Upgraded properly, it is also a beast; see the honolulu888 link to understand what I mean. The upgrade potential for either gun is very good. There are many parts available cheaply and in good supply, mainly for Laylax – their PSS10 range (Perfect Sniping System 10). New products are being released regularly so there should always be something you can throw some money at! If you want to stay at or under 1J, or drift to 2.31J, al the parts are available and in most places; easily fitted. Reports are good from people at higher power ratings and the gun seems to perform very well, easily rivalling the APS series. General Info and Mod advice: The VSR-10 stock on average tends to fire about 270fps / 0.2g bb, and the G-Spec about 290 / 0.2g bb. Although these will vary from gun to gun people! Standard G-Spec barrel is not properly tightbore, but is 303mm. Standard VSR-10 barrel is not tightbore and is 430mm. All variations use the same magazines and mostly parts for the VSR10 will fit the G-Spec, BUT PLEASE CHECK! Exclusions to this include PSS10 Barrel Spacers for example. You can fit barrel above the 303mm standard in a G-Spec. However the top bit of the outer barrel needs widening to fit the new barrel through. Rough instructions… -Take off silencer -Remove standard inner barrel -Using ~8mm drill bit, widen the hole at the top, so the 430mm barrel can poke through Any upgrades that you perform on the stock cylinder will require you to drill out a pin on the cylinder so you can remove the cylinder head and gain access to the internals of the cylinder. The strength of the pin seems to vary; some (me) have drilled it out easily with a standard hand drill and bit, while others have gone through hell with a pillar drill. Just be sensible, use a vice of some sort and a marker to start the drilling. You only need to go in about 5mm if I remember correct. However you are best of fitting a new cylinder head if you drill the pin out. In addition, you can easily use the cylinder, but file away any burrs and ensure you do not drill to far to the left of the cylinder head, so you avoid effectively puncturing the cylinder itself. Hence use as small a drill bit as possible (but obviously needs to be slightly larger than the pin itself!) To fit barrel spacers, you will need to gain access to the inside of the outer barrel. This can be done by unscrewing the outer barrel and removing the hop chamber to allow you to then remove the barrel assembly. You can then insert the barrel spacers into the outer barrel. I would recommend using a tiny bit of silicon oil on the outside of the spacers to ease them in as they can get really tight. Try to push one as far as possible (not right to the end though!), and the other, an equal distance between the first one and the hop chamber. When re-inserting the inner barrel through the spacers, rotate the inner barrel assembly to ease the barrel through. 0.2g bbs can be used with the gun from stock, but 0.23g or 0.25g for it will improve your accuracy (hopefully ;) ). Anything above 0.25g for sniping at a stock power level is not really worth it. If you upgrade to 328, 0.28g/0.29g may be worth considering. ‘Suckback’ is not an issue with VSR barrels ranging from 303mm to the 555mm bull outer barrel suited inner barrels. So fear not! Basically, its not "sucked back" - the problem is that the internal volume of the barrel is greater than the useable volume of the cylinder, and thus you lose velocity. There are some comments in one of the threads to explain it more precisely; I’ll need a minute to dig it up if you folks are interested (May be the AEG vs. Bolt Action thread from a couple of months ago). Tips: -If you own the TM scope mount, the Allen screws supplied go in slightly too far. The only issue with this occurs when you need to remove the outer barrel. You should unscrew the front two screws on the mount whenever unscrewing the outer barrel, otherwise the outer barrel thread is ‘bitten’ into by the screws. The worst-case scenario is this can jam the thread, best-case scenario is only to cause minimal scratching. -Some people have problems removing the stock butt plate cover (the rubber bit on the end of the stock!) To remove the stock butt plate, place hand along the butt plate, flat, so your fingers are by the bottom and your palm, is scope side (top). Then, dig your fingers/nails into the small line/gap where the cap comes away. Push your palm and try to peel back the cap so you release the bottom part. Then you should be able to pull it off no problem. This is easy once you know how. -When cocking the gun, try not to yank the cocking lever, especially at its end point. Try to pull from around where it joins the cylinder, so you reduce the stress on the joint, and any chance of it breaking at highest power levels. -To remove the cylinder head, there is a simple tool, which most people will have. There are two small bevelled holes around the central nozzle, right? Well if you take a pair of snipe (r!) nosed pliers, or a small Leatherman tool, the points fit right in, and you can use them to unscrew the cylinder head with ease… -Magazines are not renown for falling out, but I have nearly lot a mag a few times, because I have not checked they are in properly. Often when changing mag, in a prone stance, I was lazy with plugging the new one in. Listen for the click, and give a firm push against the front of the mag to lock it in. Don’t smack it! Placing some coloured tape will help you find them if you lose one, and as they are hidden from view of other players when in the gun, will not affect camouflage. Bear in mind any tape put on them creates a tighter fit in the magwell. -If using the TM scope mount, and standard (not specifically high) scope rings, you will probably not be able to fit a scope with a larger diameter than 40mm. For anything above this diameter, get some high scope rings. This also allows a degree of camouflage if you desire it, draped around and over the barrel without interfering with your sight. Upgrades: Any upgraded gun will incur greater stress on its internal mechanisms. Consequently it is highly recommended that you upgrade the internals, for consistent high-end performance. I won’t discuss how to fit most upgrades as they are often simple to fit with a bolt-action airsoft gun. Some upgrades will require you to slightly modify your gun and these have been explained in the General Info section above. If you need more info ask on a thread, or contact a forum mod (in the sniper section), or maybe me, as I may be able to help. Please see the http://www.honolulu888.com/Vsr10.html site for info on upgrades as it is very helpful and clear in fitting certain things and has some great photos. As was written on a relevant thread on the ever-helpful ASCUK forums; “Taking apart a G-Spec or VSR, as i am pretty sure for most Bolt Action airsoft rifles, is reasonably problem free providing you are capable enough to remember where the parts go and that kind of thing. I took apart the VSR-10 first time no problem. Slightly off topic, but recently I also took apart a version 3 gearbox for the first time, which is much more daunting and technically more confusing. The bolt actions are easy in comparison and have fewer parts in more obvious places, often with less terrible (and cheaper) consequences if you fit something slightly wrong! Give it a go and if you really get stuck on re-fitting it all together, come and ask on the forums, after berating us for saying it was 'easy'. ” Some people like to use 2 cylinders – one at 328fs and one at a higher rating, for rapid change over and less wear due to switching springs or other parts. This is probably a good idea for the VSR series, if only for reduced hassle factor, but you will obviously pay more for it. Parts used are mainly Laylax PSS10 range for ease. I have left out prices as they will vary from shop to shop, and whether you buy the parts in the UK or elsewhere. If you want to upgrade to a 1J / ~328 fps (with 0.2g BB), you can fit: -PSS10 Cylinder damper head -PSS10 Smooth Bearing Spring Guide -PSS10 100 Spring To upgrade to approximately 2.31J / ~500fps (with a 0.2g BB), you can fit: -PSS10 Cylinder damper head -PSS10 Smooth Bearing Spring Guide -PSS10 170 Spring -PSS10 Teflon cylinder (not essential) -PSS10 Silent Damper Cushions (not essential) -*PSS10 zero trigger and cylinder set -*Set of sears: PSS10 Piston Shear PSS10 Trigger Shear PSS10 Spring Guide Stopper *If you fit a zero trigger to your gun, you do not need to replace the sears, and likewise, if you fit the sears set, you do not need a zero trigger. Both of these items are basically far stronger internals, but two different kinds. The sears are cheaper, but the zero trigger is a whole unit so easier to fit. You can also fit parts such as a tapered cylinder head so you can fine-tune your power rating. A 150 spring has been reported to give about 450fps with a 0.2g bb so a 170 spring is best to get. You can clip it down then, if it is too ‘hot’! A Laylax PSS10 High Pressure Piston will also help boost your fps rating but is not essential, a possible candidate for the lower upgrades. For better accuracy, extra consistency and slight increase in power rating you can fit these parts: -PSS10 6.04mm tight bore barrel (303 / 430 / 555 mm) -PSS10 barrel spacers (VSR or G-Spec series specific) -JP Hop Bucking Reinforcer For scope mounts there are currently two choices: -Tokyo Marui mount base (20mm weaver) -Laylax real base mount (which can take both dovetail and weaver scope rings) There is also a rail kit: -*Smokeys’ Rail Attachment for VSR-10 *Which I presume mounts underneath the main body. A range of bull barrels are also available, but at the moment, only from HK. These are basically extended versions of the current G-Spec outer barrel, an outer barrel with a constant diameter (whereas on the VSR10, its diameter reduces nearer the end). If you fit a bull barrel you will need G-spec barrel spacers, not vsr10 ones. As cylinder sets go, there are a few available, some already with a 2J spring in them, but check this. If you are looking for a separate cylinder set-up, where you do not want to buy many individual parts, these are the things to look at. However, remember you may need to still buy a spring with them. -OK Cylinder Set for Marui VSR-10 -PDI Cylinder Set R Level 3 for Marui VSR-10 -JP 500fps Cylinder Set For Marui VSR-10 Series -Mosquito Molds Cylinder Kit For Marui VSR-10 Series (all metal) Please remember also that these may not come with cocking handles, so to save even more time you may want to purchase an additional cocking handle for extreme, rapid changeover! Other functional accessories are available, such as: -Laylax Spring Tensioners -PDI Light Trigger Pulling Sear & Trigger Spring -*Marui Precision Brass Barrel & New Chamber Set for VSR10 *This is basically the G-Spec barrel and hop set, but for the vsr10. Various bipods are available, that fit around the front sling point. TM produces one, or there are CA Harris replicas that fit the VSR series too. Some people argue that the VSR series does not need one due to its light weight, but it is personal choice and will probably help with shot stability if you usually shoot resting off your arm or something that isn’t fixed. Replacement parts are slowly becoming available, such as the magazine catch and cocking handles. Manufactures such as Laylax are key in future upgrades/parts, but watch Smokeys also, and TM obviously. Rating
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